Thursday, July 26, 2012

Beach Holiday on the Right Bank

Guess when this picture was taken.  Go on, I dare you:


June.  JUNE.  It was hailing here in June.  We've only been consistently breaking 70 here for about a week now; I've spent more time in a rain coat and (much bedraggled) jeans this summer than anyone south of Alaska should be forced to.  But the weather has decided to make amends by skipping straight from low 60's and rainy to mid-high 80's and perfectly sunny.  And so, in honor of summer FINALLY deciding to make an appearance, I think it only appropriate to muse upon that strangest and most unique of Parisian summer traditions, the Paris Plage.  Luckily for those of us who find ourselves Ile-de-France-bound, I have not misspelled "plague;" "plage" is the French word for beach.  (That would be a pretty terrible summer tradition: punish all those in Paris too poor to leave the city for holiday by releasing some form of deadly biological agent via rats.  That would not be nearly as fun).  

"But Allison!," you cry in protest.  "Paris is not on a coast!  What beach could you possibly mean?".  To which I answer, "This one that they invented, bitches":


City officials shut down the busy road that runs along the right bank of the Seine, import a bunch of sand from Normandy, and turn the highway into a beach complete with ice cream vendors, street performers,  palm trees, beach umbrellas, and of course, several miles of tightly packed locals and tourists sizzling like rotisserie chickens, offering up their bodies to the sun gods.  

To be clear: this is not something that I enjoy on a personal level in any way.  For me, the Paris Plage is essentially everything that I hate about the beach (hot, crowded, and sandy with overpriced snacks) without the one thing that made me crazy enough to book a holiday to the south of France for mid-August: the chance to swim in the ocean. (Oddly enough, there are no signs posted warning people away from swimming in the Seine.  I think the assumption is that if you are bonkers enough to try it, then your subsequent absence from the human race might not be such bad thing).  And yet I returned this year (with an equally sun-allergic friend; we were quite the sight, him in long sleeves and khakis, me in a sun hat and carrying a parasol) out of a heavy sense of obligation.  As the wise philosopher Carrie Bradshaw once said, "if you see a sign that says 'two-headed snake,' you pull over." And when you live in a city where they shut down a major highway to set up an elaborate fake beach along the banks of their filthy, filthy river, you pull over.  

Seriously, the whole thing is just so stinkin' French.  One of the things that I adore about life in France is that July/August holidays are expected and are practically sacrosanct.  Whole businesses shut down for months at a time; we have been provided with a schedule from the city hall of which boulangeries and other businesses will be open in our area so that we are not left breadless (quel horreur!).  AH is feeling elated and a bit indulgent to be taking 2 days off for our excursion to Marseilles (on top of the week that he is forced to take in August because they shut down his place of work because everyone is expected to be on holiday), while his French co-workers are blithely talking about the five or six week vacations that they have planned.  Contrast this to my time working my first out-of-college big girl job at a telecommunications company where I was a glorified robot monkey, verifying and sending through paper work.  During the whole winter holiday season, I was given exactly two days off: Christmas day and New Year's day.  When we encountered level 2 snow emergencies, I was required to risk life and limb and drive into work because I was considered "essential personnel"  (again, see: glorified robot monkey).  And my experience at Unnamed Telecommunications Company does not seem to be atypical for an American worker, especially in "These Trying Economic Times" when the general expectation seems to be that you should be licking boots and be grateful if it means that you receive a steady paycheck.  So needless to say, the attitude that it's not just acceptable for workers to take it easy in the summer, it's actually expected, has been a marvelous adjustment to make (other than the times that my favorite bakery is closed and I'm forced to make do with sub-par baguettes).  

Furthermore, it's not only the rich that are expected to take time to flee to their villas in Provence; this expectation of a leisurely summer is an attitude that hangs like an especially shady beach umbrella over the whole city.  And so for me, the Paris Plage is not only a strange carnival spectacle in its own right but also a physical embodiment of the importance of leisure and enjoyment in France: everyone is entitled to be on a beach somewhere, whether it's along the Mediterranean, the Atlantic or, in a pinch for the cash-strapped, the Seine.  

Still not convinced that the Paris Plage is an apt symbol of ultimate Frenchness?  Then let me leave you with a mental picture of what I saw yesterday in the sand: a man in his early-mid sixties, heavily tanned, hairy as a graying gorilla, wearing nothing but a pair of speedos, sandals, and a beret.  I wanted to nominate this man to be France's mascot.  

So even if you're stuck in an office this summer with no vacance in sight, at least take a tip from the French and turn wherever you live into its own holiday destination: beach chairs, a sunny backyard, a cold tasty beverage and some sweet tunes should do the trick.  And if you do it in a speedo, please send pictures.

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Soldes: A Retrospective of My Life In France as Told Through Retail

Alas, I doubt Karl Lagerbear here ever went on sale, otherwise he might have been mine.

              Many moons ago (well, a year and a half ago.  I'm still having trouble with metric conversions, let alone time-to-moon conversions), not long after my arrival in France, I discovered the first of many clues that France and Ohio are not, in fact, the same thing at all.  Having been forewarned that one does not enter a store simply to browse, I was alerted to the exception to that rule: you are more than free to enter a store without explicit intent to buy during the soldes, or sales.  The Sales, I asked?  I come from a land where, yes, there is a slight rhythm to the retail cycle (there is a definite "off season" to certain items, thus how I managed to get almost all of my fancy high school dance dresses for less than $20), but there was always a sale rack somewhere in the store, it's just a matter of heading straight for the back and ignoring everything hung up in an orderly fashion on hangers.  But not so in France: there is an actual law regulating when retailers can offer items at a discount.  Thus, a whole  year's worth of bargain shopping must be cut down into two 5-week segments, one in January, and one in July.  
            Back in the day (so, more moons than the moons that have happened since I've been in France), I used to classify certain periods of my life based on what play was happening roughly around that time (for example, the beginning of my junior year of college, when my romance with AH was just coming into full bloom, will always have the soundtrack of the big Cole Porter musical I was in at the time).  Monday, coming home with my arms full of (still outrageously expensive) baby clothes, I had a startling revelation: I could do something similar with my life in France by looking back on the four soldes I've experience since I've been here.  So according to this theory, my expat life could be divided thusly:

January 2011
           Fresh off the boat (plane) and even more clueless than I am now (if that can be believed).  We were nomadic for most of that sale season, but had managed to find our first apartment at Cite Universitaire toward the end of the month.  With AH off battling the Hobbit Hill and playing with lasers during the day, I was forcing myself to get out and about and explore the city.  And what better motivator to do that than shopping?  The problem was that I had absolutely no idea where to go: this was the days before my sister directed me to all the wonders of BHV and the Marais (yes, embarassingly enough, it took a New Yorker to point out Paris' great shopping district), and Paris isn't really known for it's malls (except Les Halles, which...*shudder*).  But hey, I was in Europe! H&M is Dutch (or Swedish or Norwegian, or somewhere cold and full of blondes)!  So I googled the nearest H&M, and hopped onto a metro.  Friends, this is how fresh off the plane I was: this was my first time ever using a metro (I had only used the RER up until that point), because I remember being so proud of myself for doing it all by myself without AH.  Seriously, you'd think I had mastered hang-gliding or something.  But anyway, off to the H&M on Rue de Rennes I went.  
             The trip was mostly uneventful with the exception of two discoveries.  The first was that, while it is typically annoying to be possessed of more junk in the proverbial trunk than the average Parisian, it means that I (and others of my size-ilk) make out like bandits during the sales: all of the 0-6 clothes are gone the first week, whereas size 12 ladies get their leisurely pick of the good stuff right up until the end (by which time the discounts have usually increased, thus ensuring maximum cheapness).  Bomb diggity.  The other discovery was that apparently putting a skirt on over your jeans in the aisles when the line for the cabines is really unreasonably long will earn you one patented French Disapproving Glare, as well as a tongue-lashing.  At the time I was mortified and defensive.  Now, I think fondly back on that bitchy salesman, as he was really just doing his part to break me into the peculiarities of French culture.


Erin and I at Thanksgiving dinner at church, long after our shopping spree, obvi.

July 2011 
                     Starting to get the hang of things (sort of).  This was a time in my life when I learned the lesson that has been crucial to my survival during my time abroad: the trick isn't necessarily knowing what's going on, but knowing who to ask what the heck is going on.By this time I'd begun working teaching theater camps with Erin, the woman who was fast becoming a very good friend.  In addition to all other ways that she is wonderful, she also knows where a girl with a serious sundress fetish and limited income can go to get her fix.  Thus one day after class, she opened my eyes to the delightful world of C&A, the only store in Paris even kind of resembling a Kohl's.  I don't know that AH was ever allowed to see those receipts.


January 2012
          Erin and I continue our tradition of hitting the soldes, but alas a slight wrench has been thrown into our plans: I am about 4 weeks pregnant, and only AH and I are any the wiser about the occupied state of my womb.  I kick around the idea telling Erin, but as we haven't even yet had the chance to tell our parents that we'll soon have a Fellow Traveler, I decide to keep mum.  Which, if you know me, is EXCRUCIATING.  Seriously, I am the world's worst secret keeper of my own secrets; that's probably why I don't really have any.  And so we go through Monoprix, Erin modelling all sorts of adorable sundresses, me trying only trying on muumuu-like pieces.  I can see the good friend dilemma going through Erin's head: do I tell her that shapeless sack is doing nothing for her, or do I merely try to direct her towards garments that actually have a waist?  I mumble some lame excuse about, "well, maybe I'll be pregnant by the summer," but this is still clearly not excuse enough for the tents I am dragging into the dressing room with me.  I decide to forgo dress shopping all together and settle on a roomy green coat.
           I'm being wildly restrained (by my usual standards) until we get to BHV.  And this is when I make a decision that still slightly baffles me.  Not long before I discovered I was pregnant, I took a good hard look at my wardrobe and realized that, in the few short years since college, it had become so  darn practical (by which I mean, it was full of things that I would be able to wear to work or to church without anyone calling child services on me).  This was unacceptable: I was 25, goshdarnit, surely I would have occasion to wear an impractically low-cut dress sometime in the near future!  I kept an eye out, but when would such a dress finally decide to appear?  That's right, friend.  4 weeks into my pregnancy.  
I kept the dress just long enough to take pictures of myself in it.  Anyway, AH didn't much care for it; 
he said it made me look like I have the chest of a 12-year-old boy.


And so, did I maturely say to myself, "not only will you not be able to zip yourself into this much longer, you're about to be someone's mother; now really is the time to start PUTTING IT AWAY."  Clearly not.  Thus that particular soldes (as well as that dress, which eventually was given a happy home by Erin) will always remind me of that time in my early pregnancy when I was still delusional and telling myself, "hey, I'll be a hip young mom who can totally leave baby at home and go out till the wee hours of the morning wearing what is essentially a sequined gynecological smock!".  Oh, silly, silly Allison.


July 2012
            Yeah, I've given up that ghost.  And it's ok: I've made the marvelous discovery that the pregnancy wardrobe is much more comfy that the mid-20's clubbing wardrobe (seriously, maternity jeans: all the comfort of sweat pants while still getting to look like you actually care.  Why do normal jeans have zippers?  I am not looking forward to making the transition back).  And so the past few weeks I've been happily hitting up the big baby store, Aubert, in Paris with soon-to-be Auntie Erin, as well as another expecting mama friend (with twins!  I do not envy her stroller decision).  I've also been trolling the Carrefour and Monoprix out near my new digs, looking for a suitable shoe-rack (I know, life in the suburbs is KRAZEE!).  But while introducing expecting mama friend to the wonders of C&A (look, the circle is complete!), I did wander over to the accessories department while she was in the dressing room.  I may not have any more illusions about sexy dresses, but I could treat myself to a flashy ring or a new necklace, right?  Except that, first of all, I need more jewelry like I need a hole in the head.  Secondly, little FT has tainted even my love of shiny things: I couldn't look at the earrings without thinking about how much it will hurt when she decides to yank on them, nor could I look at the necklaces without imagining her yanking on the chain and breaking it (apparently, in all my paranoid fantasies my baby is the Hulk).  So sigh, no new goodies for mom.  But on the plus side, hey:


Um, these come with matching bloomers.  Who can say that about their Sexy Dress?
               

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Expat Survey: The Oregonian



Along with appearing to understand what is happening when I have absolutely no idea what anyone is saying, another unpleasant but necessary survival skill that I've picked up during my time abroad is the ability to say goodbye to my nearest and dearest without completely losing it and going into a Ben and Jerry's coma of self-pity.  Alas, the latest dear friend to leave these fair shores is the irreplaceable Oregonian.  After two years working and studying in France, she has returned to her native land to take on the noble cause of looking after teenage girls in the foster care system.  I will miss too many things about her to name, but towards the top of the "Awesome Things About Oregonian" list is her unique perspective and wicked sense of humor.  Happily for me (and for you), she indulged me by agreeing to take a modified version of my Visitor's Survey (2 years is really too long to qualify as a visit) for your reading pleasure.  So without further adieu,  here are her responses to my nosy questions:

Me: So Oregonian, important things first.  What was your favorite thing to get at the boulangerie?
Oregonian: This raspberry nutella croissant that I only ever found at one boulangerie in the suburbs (L'Hay Les Roses) (I'm convinced that's what God did on the seventh day).

Me: Other than learning the language, what was the hardest thing about Paris to adjust to?
O: Ha. Resisting the urge to smile at everyone I pass on the street.  I love to talk and get to know people, so I had to learn not to say my name right away when I met someone (the French don't do that), and had to censor what I said.  For example, "Je dois faire pipi" (I have to pee) is not appropriate; it's better to say, "Je vais au toilette" (I'm going to the toilet).  I also had to learn to resist the urge to ask personal questions.  To me, personal questions is just part of conversating.  And I love to conversate and get to know people so that was a big adjustment.  Instead of talking about life stories, I had to learn to be content with speaking of the weather and politics.


Me: Do you anticipate any reverse culture shock returning to the States?
O: When I bump into people here in Oregon, I still say, "pardon" or "merci" when they move out of the way. Driving is something I've had to get used to again. Also, now I have to stop saying "noir" (black) when asked how I'd like my meat prepared. I can smile at boys now without them reading anything into it, and I don't have to fake my way through the "bisous." In fact, now I have to awkwardly turn what I thought was gonna be a bisous greeting into a side hug. And probably the biggest culture shock, the CHOCOLATE! After Cote d'or, milka, galler, and lindt, I just don't know that I can go back to Hershey's. (Well s'mores are the only exception to that)


Me:What was your favorite way to spend a Saturday in Paris?
O: Relaxing on the shore of the Seine River, while eating kebabs, and talking with a good friend.



Me: What will you not miss about Paris, not one little bit?
O: I realize I may upset every French person I know by saying this, but the cheese! I will not miss the cheese. I'd take Tillamook cheddar over any of the fancy, stinky french cheeses any day.


Me: Any French habits or phrases that you picked up that you anticipate becoming all the rage in Grant's Pass?
Me: "C'est chouette!" I've already started to make it cool, it's only just a matter of time before it goes state-wide. I've got my brother saying, "Mince!" and he's a pretty popular guy around these parts, so I'm sure it won't be too much longer till it also has taken over. Habits? hmm...any french habits that I'd like to take on myself...yea let me think about that one...no, so don't think they'll be spreading to Oregon anytime soon.  


Me: How close was your time in Paris to the plot of the film "Moulin Rouge"?
O: Not even close! So glad my life is not that depressing! (Though, great music!)


Me: Wasn't French men talking to you on the metro just the best?
O: You know if I were still in Paris sitting on a crowded metro with my personal bubble being invaded by an all too cocky Frenchman who smells of body odor and cologne, I think I might have some negative things to say. But after being back in the land of pot-bellied, cart-hart-wearing, gun-toting, country men who the only communication they enjoy having with the opposite sex is, "Woman, get me a beer," or "Hand me the remote," I think I would have to say that I prefer the french charm over being valued for my abilities to open a beer can and cook chicken. (Disclaimer, a bit of an exaggeration, not all American guys are like that) 
Me: Any lasting life lessons from your time abroad that you feel compelled to share with us?

O: This quote sums it up: "Il faut aller loin pour comprendre ce qui est proche." Paulo Coelho "You must go far away to understand what is close." (rough translation)


Me: Your time in Paris in three words.  Go.
O: "A Movable Feast" (Ernest Hemingway was right).


Thursday, July 5, 2012

Here We Are!

Y'all: guess where I am right now, right this second.  If you said "France," good for you, Sherlock, since that is in the title of the blog.  I shall give you a hint: it's where the heart (and a plethora of unpacked boxes) is.  That's right, dears, I'm in my new apartment.  BOO-YAH.

AH and I actually managed to find this place back in mid-June, but France has taught me a thing or two about how easily crushable all my dreams are, and so I didn't want to jinx it by announcing anything until papers were signed, my clothes were hanging in the closet, and I had done a #2 in the toilet (that means they can't take it back now, right?).  But now here we are, out in the lovely suburb of Sceaux (because I finally managed to convince AH that a 40m studio in the city was not going to cut it; you can't keep babies in drawers indefinitely), and I'm hoping we can put our things into drawers, hang some art on the walls, and put down some roots for a little while.

I am clearly still in the honeymooning stage.  Right now, I don't mind the fact that it's a third floor walk-up; that's just keeping me in shape for labor, right? (And don't worry: there is a storage room on the first floor for strollers.  Otherwise, walk-up would have been a deal-breaker).  I'm even willing to overlook the fact that, in a moment of victory, on moving day I came into the bedroom, sat on the bed...and ended up in a pile of mattress and blankets on the floor.  Easily fixable, says AH!  Hey, it's motivation for us to buy a basic toolkit, which is something we should have anyway.  No harm, no foul. We're just spending a few nights sleeping on the mattress on the floor.  But really, that just brings me back to my college days when I slept on a mattress on the floor of room, my dirty clothes piled higher than my sleeping body mere inches away.  It's like I'm 21 again! (Minus all the typical trappings of a 21-year-old, obviously).

But seriously, I live in an apartment with rooms.  Rooms that have DOORS.  So, like, when people come to visit, we can pile all of our crap in our bedroom and no one needs to be any the wiser.  There's a little balcony that I'm just itching to put a little basil plant on.  And a real kitchen with an oven (baked mac and cheese!), and a washing machine (cloth diapers!), and, maybe my favorite part: a freezer.  Because that means that I, over-heated, pregnant person that I am, can keep ice cream within my chubby, bloated grasp.  And the baby will have her own room (Madeleine-themed, all AH's idea, I swear) with a real crib and curtains and books and little tiny baby dresses...it's true, the nesting has begun in earnest.  AH swears that he can see me obsessively gathering and arranging little twigs.  Seriously, y'all, I joined mother-fing Pinterest.  It's bad.

And the nesting shall continue, just as soon as we manage to evict the mass gathering of flies that have taken up residence in the nursery.  But hey!  It's all good!  I'M NOT HOMELESS ANYMORE!  Even if I do have a few unwelcome roommates right now (which will die a horrible, painful death, mark my words), I know I have a place to rest my head tonight, and hopefully every night for the remainder of our stay in France.  And by the weekend, when we purchase our new tool kit and AH goes all Ty-what's-his-face-home-improvement on our bed, my head will hopefully even be a few feet off the ground.


Sunday, June 17, 2012

We Went to Look for America, and I Think We Found It. It's Pretty Big.

Because my life has a soundtrack, and that soundtrack is written and performed by two aging men with questionable coifs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ninu6q5jc4

So yes, jet-lag receding, I'm ready to reflect on my second annual Memorial Day trip back to the Motherland (by which I mean America, since I'm probably a lot closer to the land of my ancestors right now in France.  I don't know exactly which country that is, just that it's wherever pale people are made).  Highlights...

The peeps.  Obviously.  Lots and lots of quality time with friends and family (we were gone for two weeks, thus the exceptionally extended hiatus from the bloggity blog), but still it's somehow never quite enough.  Luckily we have the baby to use as bribery to get some of those friends and family back over to this side of the pond sooner rather than later.  Speaking of which...
The cake the lady at Giant Eagle made says we're having a little She Traveler!  For once AH and I had our timing nearly perfect and did our 2nd trimester ultrasound two days before we were set to return, so we only had to keep the secret for three days before we were able to announce in person to both sets of grandparents-to-be, as well as my sister (the hot one in the yellow apron, obvi, as I am the pregnant one who looks like me).  As it was, we felt that we had to do something kind of snazzy since we had kept people waiting for all of 72 hours to know the gender of the baby, so we decided to do this newfangled reveal cake thing.  For the uninitiated (so probably anyone that's not currently obsessively reading baby blogs), a reveal cake is a cake with either the batter or a center layer of frosting colored either pink or blue so that when you cut into it, everyone learns the gender together.  And then you get cake.  Of course AH and I being us, we decided that we wanted to do this approximately five hours before we were supposed to leave Columbus for Indianapolis for the big family get-together.  But God Bless the USA (and Giant Eagle): we were able to put in an order for a cake before church, and pick it up after service before we hit the road.  The novelty of being able to do so did not escape us: I'm pretty sure making such a last minute request of a bakery on a Sunday morning is prohibited in the Rights of Man.


Food.  Oh mercy, the food.  People have been asking what I have been having cravings for, and the unfortunate truth is that almost all of my cravings have been for American foods.  So in two weeks, we did work.  Many people have commented that they can now really tell that I'm pregnant; my response is that I'm pretty sure it's just chocolate chip cookies.  Pictured above is the first of not one but two Dirty Frank's meals that I was able to consume while home (yes, that is nacho cheese and potato chips on a hot dog.  No, that's not just a weird pregnancy craving- this is almost the exact meal that I ate on AH's and I's second wedding anniversary).  Many thanks to my mother and mother-in-law for feeding me as though I needed to store up enough sustenance in two weeks to feed their grandbaby until she decides to come to greet us in September.

How every cocktail party conversation now begins in my head: "Hello, have you met my husband?  DR. AH?  That's right, he's a doctor now.  A doctor of physics.  That's right, my husband has a PhD in physics.  Yes, something with high harmonics.  I watched his thesis defense, but it was at 8 am, so I will tell you what I remember: Strong Field Regimes.  High Harmonics.  Rabbit.  Wedges.  But yes, he is very smart and important, so give me another one of those mini-quiches.  Yes, the ones with bacon.  And one of those little cupcakes, too."

Trip to the farmer's market with my mom, and there just happen to be llamas and miniature ponies in a pen next to the store.  Like you do.  Oh, Ohio, you would.

This is my sister-in-law's chicken condo.  It is roughly the size of our old apartment, and probably cleaner.  And while we were on that trip (an excursion north so AH could celebrate the new PhD with some college buds and his sister and BIL)...
I think I can speak for AH when I say that this was another highlight for him: doughnuts.  Pastries may be his mistress, but doughnuts are probably his One True Love (sometime I'll have to dig out the picture of his groom's cake from our wedding, which was just an artfully tiered mound of Krispy Kremes with a rubber ducky bride and groom on top).

And one lowlight: Driving.  Maybe it's a year-long absence from automobiles.  Maybe it's knowing that the tiniest little fender bender could seriously endanger little FT.  Maybe it's the fact that I was never exactly the best driver to begin with.  Whatever it was, what was once a mild inconvenience is now seen as OMG THE WORST IDEA EVER BECAUSE CARS ARE SCARY METAL DEATHBOXES.  Seriously, I've seen how inconsiderate, selfish, and careless people can be while walking.  Yes, let's put all of these people in control of several tons of metal and machinery and put them out on narrow stretches of land, all trying to get different places!  WE ARE OVERCOME WITH OUR OWN BRILLIANCE!!!

So now here was are (semi) settled back in the land of cheese and wine.  Compared to last year when I did this (if you remember the post), the transition back has been a bit less angst-filled.  That's due to several reasons, I think, and most of them are somehow related to the little person/cookie dough tumor in my tummy.  Firstly, I'm pretty sure I'd been using the trip home as some sort of arbitrary marker of, "Oh, I don't have to worry about the fact that I am going to be responsible for a tiny helpless human being soon until after AH has defended his thesis and I have gotten my fill of hot dogs." Well, now that deadline has past, and so most of my angst (it is a limited supply, thank goodness) is being directed towards that quickly dawning realization (seriously, there are different varieties of cloth diapers?  And what the hell is a birthing ball?  They're going to need to give me stitches where?!).  And also, as previously stated, the impending arrival of our Fellow Traveler means that keeping in contact with friends and family back home isn't just a nice thing for AH and I to do: it's a fundamental part of how we want to build our family.  My mom has already expressed a concern that little FT won't know to connect her face with her voice.  I have a feeling that not only will FT know her grandma (and grandpas, and aunts and uncles, and anyone else who wants to spoil her rotten), but her blonde brownies as well.  And I'll be using the "baby wants brownies, mom" excuse for many years to come.


Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Quackers* and Quickies: Part Deux

So when we last left the scandalous avian inhabitants of Parc Montsouris....

The ducks, our protagonists, were engaged in an endless series of love triangles, with a few quadrilaterals thrown in for good measure.  This season, as we return, we find that Daisy here has added a few hatchlings to her brood.  But where is daddy Donald?

 Sneaking off into the bushes with Chaz, the young intern at his office.  They say that the bushes are where their fantasy football league meets.  But a fantasy football league with only two members?  How long will you turn a blind eye, Daisy?

Goosey, the loyal but dim-witted best friend, has gotten in over her head once again.  She thought that accepting a little "chemical help" from the Ravens would help her job performance, clinching that big promotion she so desperately needs to feed the goslings.   But when that high fades, she crashes hard, and it's only a matter of time before the whole pond knows the dirty, dangerous secret to her new-found success...

Recently, the turtles have been making more and more appearances on the shore.  They claim it's to sun themselves in this still miserably cold Parisian weather, but they're reappearance coincided rather eerily with the disappearance of several ducklings from their nests.  Now rumors are swirling that they've been selling baby ducks to tourists for cold, hard cash.  But what would turtles do with cash?  Seriously, who starts these rumors?  They really need to think them through better.

Ah, the white swans: mysterious, aloof, and dangerously beautiful.  The black swans have been searching for years to find the secret to knocking them off of their pedestal, thus making themselves the undisputed Queen Bees of the pond.  Many attempts have failed, but it looks like this time they've found the white swans' shocking secrets...stay tuned for the big reveal in the epic season finale showdown.

The heron, wise but reclusive, has been venturing closer and closer to the shore.  What are you looking for, heron? And don't say fish.  That would be too mundane.  And if I've learned anything watching these birds, it's that nothing is ever as innocent as it seems...



*I almost published this post as "Quakers and Quickies," which would have been fairly misleading as I know nothing about the sex lives of the members of the Society of Friends.

Friday, May 11, 2012

The Kindness of Strangers (and Friends)

Ah, sweet relief.  Not the Mylanta kind, the "done with finals" kind (SUCK IT, Intro to the Hebrew Bible...except, you know, don't, because I'm actually uncomfortable telling anything with "bible" in the title to suck it.  That seems to be in poor taste for a seminarian).  And so with my final exams all turned in, and a day off of work all to myself, I couldn't wait to get out and about in the city, perhaps to return to the Jardin des Plantes when it wasn't in the middle of a downpour.  But, despite yesterday being achingly lovely and sunny (while I was stuck inside furiously trying to write down every example of God being merciful in the Old Testament that I could of within the span of 90 minutes, of course), today is back to....dreary.  But, dear reader, you've already suffered with me through one extended kvetch about the weather.  Fear not; I won't subject you again.

But having time to snuggle up in bed today with Sherlock Holmes and take superfluous naps has given me time to pause and do a bit of reflecting.  As a general rule, I try to avoid this (reflection, not superfluous naps- those I hoard) as it usually leads me to remember all of the things on my to-do list that haven't been done, and many frantic phone-calls to AH at work asking if he's called this person or followed up on that bit of paperwork.  Because I'm not going to lie, friends: the past month has been borderline terrifying.  As Jon is about to change jobs (he begins at a different lab, close to the old one, in June), he is awaiting a new contract.  As we haven't received a contract, we haven't been able to look for an apartment.  Now looking for an apartment in Paris is rather a fraught and complicated exercise at the best of time.  But at the moment, with nothing to show that we have an income or any legal right to be in the country, it's next to impossible.  The wee-sprog-to-be complicates things (as they tend to do) because we can't exactly settle for the first 10 m studio that pops up; realistically, we need two bedrooms.  Oh, and we are out of our current apartment at the end of the month.  So the phrase that could describe my state in the past month has been: Pregnant in a foreign country and imminently homeless.

Now, don't you fret: I wouldn't be posting about this if things were still at Level 5 Crisis Mode; I have more respect for my mother's nerves than that.  There is some light at the end of this tunnel, and it comes, Blanche DuBois style (although infinitely less creepy), from the kindness of strangers.  In a panic a few weeks back, I posted on The Message (the online forum of an organization for English-speaking mothers in Paris) about the situation that AH and I were in.  No, no magical offers for the perfect apartment came up, but something just about as miraculous did:  a woman emailed me to tell me that she, her husband and two children live in a three-story house but, as they don't really use the first floor, have been kicking around the idea of renting it out as a B&B, and would we like to come be their guinea pigs?  Hell. Yes.  We were out the next day to meet with them and see the house.  It's lovely, of course, but what made a bigger impression was just the utter kindness and generosity that these people showed us.  We mentioned that we'd be putting our things into a storage unit, and they told us that wasn't necessary, they have a whole extra room that we could store our things in while we're there (I should probably mention that they live in the suburbs- this magical giant house does not exist in Paris, because we are not staying with descendants of the Vanderbilts).  Did we need to provide any pay stubs or bank statements?  "Of course not!  You're practically family."

And that's it.  After one meeting, we've secured ourselves a home base while we hunt (hopefully not too much longer) for an appropriate place to bring our little Fellow Traveler home to.  While things are still far from settled and hunky dory (see: continued lack of permanent living arrangements, possibility of having to change hospitals 7 months into my pregnancy depending on where said living arrangement ends up being), I can feel the knot starting to unravel.

It makes me feel a bit silly, to be honest.  There were so many times in the past month or so that someone would tell me that it would all turn out all right, and I honestly did not believe them.  For the record, that's pretty unlike me; I'm usually not such a die-hard cynic.  I think it largely has to do with the fact that so far, as a mother, my job is to not eat sushi or get smashed on liquor, go to all my doctor's appointments, and make sure that baby has a safe place and lots of diapers to come home to.  And I've been failing spectacularly on that last bit.  Not good to begin motherhood in the negative column.  But AH, bless him, has kept cool as a cucumber, telling me that things will work themselves out.  Him saying so, admittedly, has not always gone well, and has led to a few late evening shriekings on my end.      But they are going to fine.  Of course they are.

And they will do so because, despite the rudeness and disinterestedness that often color encounters in city life, most people, deep down, are not a-holes.  We will get through this because, somehow, we've gotten through every challenge that's been thrown our way.  And I can tell you, it's rarely been anything that we've done that seals the deal on solving the crisis at hand.  To start at the beginning: it's not exactly like AH filled out dozens of applications, hoping for a position in Paris.  It just sort of...fell into our laps.  And we took it.  We find out we're pregnant (surprise, kind of!), and offers of help pour in from all sides from people we know and strangers that only know that I speak English and managed to get myself knocked up while living abroad.  Completely overwhelmed by the French medical system, my friend Alix offers finds me an OBGYN and gets me registered in a good hospital.  Unsure whether my doctor and nurses will speak English, my friend Erin offers to come with me to my doctors appointment in case I need a translator.  Overwhelmed by all the things we'll need to buy for little FT, our friends Alex and Helen immediately begin listing off the things that their beautiful little toddler no longer uses that we could borrow, and they also tell us all the secret cheap places to buy baby things (hello, Message Bring and Buy and our 100 euro travel system!).  And what's especially amazing is, it's not like we, pathetic wanderers that we are, are necessarily going to be in a position where we can even come close to repaying the kindness that these people have done for us, unless they want to be repaid in baby cuddles (in which case: done, and done).  They've offered their time, wisdom, and bouncy chairs simply out of the goodness of their hearts.

To be clear: it's not like AH and I have been sitting back, wringing our hands over what to do.  There has been much email haranguing of future bosses, trolling of real estate websites, and pouring over official documents.  My mother resolutely reminding me that "God helps those who help themselves" was a fixture of my childhood and adolescence, and I did, eventually, manage to take it to heart.  But help He does.  And in our case, He's managed to find some awesome people to do it through.